There are three cultures that define our past: the Egyptian, which always exerts a
special attraction on us because of the pyramids; the Greek; and the Roman,
which shaped us. For this reason, I believe it’s important to share with you, dear
readers, these very interesting facts about hair in these three civilizations.
In Egyptian culture, white hair was covered with wigs to disguise aging and appear
younger. The shape, size, and ornaments of the wigs varied to differentiate people
of royalty and nobility from the rest.
In 1900, a spectacular discovery was made in Egypt: a 5,500-year-old mummy was
found. The discoverers named it Ginger because it had yellowish-white skin and
wavy, almost curly blond hair. It presumably belonged to the Naqada culture, which
still occupied the region before the first pharaoh. Nothing more can be said about
its haircut, but it seems clear that this early culture already knew of a wide variety
of hair colors. Dark, reddish, or brown hair colors were widely represented, as well
as blond buns.
Thanks to the number of mummified bodies found in the dry, sandy areas near the
Nile Valley, many details of the physical appearance and social life of the ancient
Egyptians have been revealed, especially through the analysis of the hair on these
bodies.
Joann Fletcher, a British Egyptologist and specialist in hair analysis, says that in
archaeological studies, “hair is invaluable for determining the conditions of daily
life, as well as providing information about diet and diseases.” She states:
- “The most common hair color found in Egyptian mummies is dark brown, almost
black, although light brown and blond hairs are frequently found. The analysis of
much of this hair also shows the use of various forms of henna, which even
Ramses II used to rejuvenate his white hair.”
- “The lice found on their ancient combs show that their hair was infested with scalp
insects, and for this reason, men and women used to completely shave their
heads. But at the same time, they used wigs with elaborate hairstyles and hair
extensions.”
- “On the body of one woman, long hair was found that reached her shoulders,
augmented with meticulously worked extensions within her natural hair; the
complexity of the technique suggests it was done with the assistance of a third
person and must have taken long hours to complete.”
- “In her hair, certain sections of depigmented, white hair can be seen, due to age,
contrasting with her natural dark brown hair, which was dyed with the typical bright
orange coloration of henna.”
In ancient Egypt, hairstyle was an indication of social status and prosperity.
Additionally, when it came to hairstyles, there were specific rules for the different
phases of life. It was also customary and socially acceptable for young adults to
have completely shaved heads. They only kept a side lock of hair called the “lock
of youth,” which was cut upon reaching a more mature age to signify entry into this
new phase of life. At this point, the young adult could choose whether to keep short
hair or let it grow. To demonstrate health and strength at a more mature age,
depending on social position, it was common to wear a wig, which allowed them to
conceal hair loss or graying hair and boast a healthy, magnificent mane.
Wigs were also used to protect the natural hair from the sun.
For women in the Old Kingdom of ancient Egypt (2700–2200 BCE), it was
fashionable to have shorter hair, while women in the New Kingdom (1550–1070
BCE) grew their hair long, wearing it braided or styled in curls. Flowers, fabrics,
headbands, ivory pieces, metal beads, and hairpins were used as hair ornaments.
Additionally, hair was dyed with henna. Hairstyles were an expression of
individuality. Women of the highest rank rejected veils to cover their heads, proudly
displaying their hair.
The ancient Egyptians styled their hair in various ways: men and women could
have their heads completely shaved, wear shoulder-length hair, or have short hair
cut to the nape. Hair length did not determine gender for them. However, it could
signify age or social group. Children’s heads were completely shaved until puberty,
after which both men and women could choose to wear their hair long or shaved.
Older adults wore wigs to hide baldness or white hair. Workers kept shorter hair
with bangs. Among the most powerful social classes, elaborate wigs and hair
extensions were common, requiring the assistance of personal hairdressers and
wig designers.
Around 3200 BCE, the kingdoms of Upper and Lower Egypt were unified, marking
the start of the dynastic era of the pharaohs. As the empire expanded, different
African ethnic groups were incorporated, mixing over the centuries with the original
inhabitants of the predynastic period. By the time of Akhenaten, his wife Nefertiti,
and his son Tutankhamun—14th century BCE—representations of images showed
typically Negroid features: thicker lips, darker skin tones, and curly black hair.
However, an analysis of Ramses II’s mummy, a body of an 87-year-old man at the
time of death, revealed red pigments in his hair roots, suggesting he had been a
redhead, with white hair at the time of death, dyed with henna. Additionally,
Ramses’ hair roots displayed circular follicles positioned obliquely, indicating wavy
hair with Caucasian characteristics. At the start of the dynastic period (around 3000
BCE), completely shaved heads or very short hair became preferred. This favored
hair hygiene, but to avoid sun exposure, they covered their heads with wigs. Wigs
were made of human hair or sheep’s wool. With the exception of the Old Kingdom
period (2705–2213 BCE), men shaved all facial hair. In the Old Kingdom, figures
are only seen represented with thin mustaches.
During the final dynastic period, from 305 BCE to 30 BCE, when the Ptolemies
ruled, a significant change in hairstyles occurred. The Ptolemies were
Macedonians of Hellenistic culture, and after the death of Alexander the Great,
they began to dominate the entire Nile Valley. The pharaonic dynasties ended with
the last Ptolemaic queen, Cleopatra VII, when Egypt was annexed by the Roman
Empire. During this stage, hair and hairstyles reflected Greek influence: short and
naturally curly hair with less use of wigs and artificial extensions. The wigs worn
during this period also featured curly hair. Laurel crowns and headbands with
rosettes were used as adornments. During this period, Egyptian and Greek styles
merged in all aspects of aesthetics.
HAIR TREATMENT PRODUCTS IN ANCIENT EGYPT:
- Washing: The ancient Egyptians washed their hair and wigs. One method
involved a mixture of water and citrus juices. The citric acid dissolved greasy oils
from the hair and sealed the follicle to keep it dry. Hair was left soft and shiny.
Almond oil was used as a conditioner after washing.
- Hair Removal: Hair removal methods included pastes made of lime, starch, and
arsenic. Another mix was made of sugar and beeswax. They also used sharp
copper or bronze knives for shaving and tweezers for plucking hair.
- Coloring: Preferred hair colors were red and black. The most used dye, since
4000 BCE, was henna, which gave orange or reddish tones to hair. It was mixed
with ox blood or crushed tadpoles to create different shades. Indigo, extracted from
the Indigofera tinctoria plant, was used for black dye. Those with gray hair used a
recipe of ox blood boiled in oil, believing the darkness of the animal would transfer
to the hair. By 1500 BCE, brightly colored wigs in blue, red, or green became
fashionable.
- Baldness Treatments: Those suffering from hair loss sought remedies to regain
their hair. These remedies included preparations with fat from various animals: goats, lions, crocodiles, snakes, hippos, and cats. Another remedy involved applying a patch of crushed lettuce leaves. Fenugreek seeds were also used.
Interesting knowledge!
